Antarctica

Ushuaia Mon., Dec.3, 2007

2008-01-25T09:01:00.000-08:00

For speed and efficiency of travel, give me Amundsen; for Scientific discovery, give me Scott; but when all hope is lost, get down on your knees and pray for Shackleton. Sir Edmund Hillary

The "Akademik Shokalskiy" arrived in Ushuaia some time during the night. Wake-up call 6:00am, breakfast 7:00am disembarkation 7:45am. Whew!

Our trip to our respective homes has begun. My flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aries left at 2:00pm. I was able to sleep on the trip for Buenos Aries to New York. From there on to Toronto and Billy and Sarah drove me the last leg of my trip.

Thank you for sharing in this adventure with me. I have been able to relive the experience by sharing with you in this blog. If you are interested in seeing all my pictures and paraphernalia please don't hesitate to call and we can set up a date.

Love and hugs, Sue

Drake Passage, Sat.and Sun., Dec.1 and 2, 2007

2008-01-25T07:34:00.000-08:00

Some of us are over the seasickness stage and no longer want to die. Hartford after 10 days on the 'Nimrod' with Shackleton.

Crossing the Drake, if you were able, you could enjoy various lectures, videos, and wildlife viewings. As you can see from the pictures, it was a rough ride home. I spent most of my time eating, sleeping, on the Bridge or outside. The evening of the 2nd we were treated to a Farwell Cocktail Party and Dinner. The Captain joined us in the Bar for a toast to a successful trip.

Port Lockroy and Melchior Isl, Fri. Nov. 30, 2007

2008-01-25T06:54:00.000-08:00

Strange: there is always sadness on departure. It is as if i cannot, after all, bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil. Fridtjof Nansen
Gratefully, Jamie woke us from our cold restless sleep at 5:00 am. After packing up our gear, Brandon and Jill arrived with Zodiacs to return us to the ship for a few hours of comfortable warm sleep before breakfast. Port Lockroy, a museum, post office and souvenir shop, located in an old British antarctic Survey hut, was our first stop today. It was great fun chatting with the personnel that ran the site. Postcards mail from here take from 3 weeks to 3 months depending on when the next mail ship comes through. Being of British decent, I found the museum quite interesting. Many of the products on the shelves were those I had grown up with as a child. I also had a chuckle reading the instructions for bathing. Years ago, whaling was a prosperous occupation in the Antarctic. Many old whale bones can be found in this particular area.

After lunch we were encouraged to begin securing our belongings for the trip back across the Drake Passage. Being now familiar with the conditions in the Drake, I willingly followed the instructions. The evening was spent watching the movie "Shackleton". Having ventured onto the Antarctic Continent, I now have a sincere respect for the men who braved this continent with much less knowledge and fewer comforts than we had.

South of Lemaire Channel, Thusday, Nov. 29, 2007

2008-01-13T08:24:00.000-08:00

"We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us." John Steinbeck "Travels with Charlie"

As you can see from the pictures, every day and everywhere you look there was something amazing to see and experience. It's as if one human being is unable to absorb it all. The Lemaire Channel is the most scenic point in the Antarctic Peninsula with its rugged snow-covered mountains, crystal clear waters, majestic icebergs, and stunningly blue sky. The afternoon was spent at the Ukranian base Veradsky Station. No women are allowed to work on this base. That being the case, when women visit as we did, the men are extremly please with our female company. The young fellow (Gliebov Volodymyr) in the picture with me is the cook on the base. He asked me "Are you one? Are you alone?" As soon as I said yes, he latched onto me. He never left my side until it was time for us to leave. Another fellow came over to chat with us but Gliebov stuck close. There is also a tradition, that if a woman gives the bartender her bra, she receives a free shot of vodka.

The penguins were very noisy and smelly creatures, but you can't stop watching their antics. They lay their eggs on rock or on a nest they make out of rocks which they have collected. Many of them travel a distance to find these rocks while others steal the rocks from their neighbours, which can create quite a scene.

We saw 5 different kinds of seals (Crabeater, Fur, Elephant, Weddell, and Leopard. The Leopard is the only one that actually dines on penguins). The seals lounge on ice flows, basking in the sun.

Riding in the Zodiacs was an exciting experience in itself. The crew all had Zodiac training and at no time did I feel anything but safe and secure. Each driver though, had different skills and attitudes toward the vehicle . Jill, the female member of the team, was more cautious than the men but had a great deal more knowledge of the Antarctic. The one Russian driver was fearless but never spoke a word unless he wanted you to get in our out of the Zodiac. The other men of the team were somewhere in between these two.

Tonight we camp out!
At 9:00pm, we 21 campers set off in the Zodiacs, with sleeping bags, tents, and thermal sleeping mats. It is about minus one when we arrive on Hovgaard Island. Having had some instruction we set up our tents and prepare for our Antarctic sleep-out. Jamie our guide creates our portable toilet area.

As you can see, in order to view the picture of our port-a-po, you will have to turn your head to the right. Jamie even provide us with toilet paper and hand sanitizer. What a guy!

After hiking up to the top of hill to see the sunset at 11:30pm (which actually never really sets) we head back to our tents to sleep. At first I was quite warm, however, once the cold of the ice and the snow under me, crept through my sleeping mat I was quite cold. I guess that can happen when you sleep out in minus six degrees Celsius. I did it though. 5:00am we awoke and were transported back to the ship to catch a few more hours sleep before breakfast.

Neko Harbor, Danco Island, Paradise Bay

2007-12-25T09:18:00.000-08:00

Wake up call 5:00am. We set out on the Zodiac at 5:30am for Neko Harbor which was our firsts continent landing. Excitement reigned as we realized that we were standing on the Antarctic Continent. As was often the case, the best view from the island was high above the point from which we landed. Off we trudged up the mountain of snow and ice. Sometimes our steps would end in knees deep snow. Once arriving at our destination it is clear the climb was worth the gift of an amazing view. Every time were left the ship , we washed our boots in a solution that prevented particles from the ship, that might damage the environment of the Antarctic, to be transported. Some ships actually vacuum your person each time you went ashore. Breakfast at 8:00 was a welcome gift after our morning of activity. I had been developing a sore throat and it had become quite painful by now. After breakfast I went to my cabin to rest waiting for Brandon to call us for our next landing at Danco Island. I had asked HP for help in deciding what I needed to do next concerning this sore throat. Feeling it was time we should have been called I dressed and set out. When I got to the gang plank everyone had left and were on shore. I felt cheated that I had missed the landing and then I remembered that I had asked HP for guidance and returned to my cabin to sleep. After lunch, (Did I tell you food was AMAZING?) we cruised Paradise Bay, aptly named for the incredible icebergs and glaciers.

Tues. Nov. 27, Cierva Cove and Mikkelson Harbour

2007-12-20T15:20:00.000-08:00

An Antarctic expedition is the worst way to have the best time of your life. Apsley Cherry-Garrard "The Worst Journey in the World"

Wake-up call 6:30am, another delicious breakfast and in the Zodiac by 8:00. This morning we were treated to incredible icebergs and dramatic glaciers. The blue colour of the icebergs and the glaciers in the pictures is the true colour we saw. Unbelievable! At 11:00 we brave souls who planned to camp-out on the continent for a night, met with Jamie to discuss plans. We were given a sleeping bag (good for temperatures of -10 degrees C.) a thermal mat to sleep on and a two-man tent. "Miss" organized and needing control, I immediately went back to my cabin to figure out how to get into this mummy style sleeping bag with as much grace as possible. There I lay cuddled up on my floor. Now if only I can be this warm on our camp-out. After lunch we set out for Mikkelson Harbor. Gentoo penguins (the picture) breed here. They travel a great distance from their nests to the water, were they bathe, eat, swim, and collect rocks for their nests. It is quite a sight to see so many penguins travelling up and down this hill of snow and ice. Every afternoon or evening the Expedition crew held a Re-cap of the day and Briefing session for the following day. Appropriately this evenings film was "Happy Feet"

Monday Nov. 26 South Shetland Islands

2007-12-14T12:09:00.000-08:00

Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all. Helen Keller

6:30am. Over the intercom in our rooms, Brandon, our expedition leader's rich deep voice woke us with a "Good Morning. Good morning. It is 6:30. We are in the Shetland Islands. Our plan is to go ashore this morning at Half Moon Island. Good Morning." Breakfast at 7:00am and dressed ready to go ashore by 8:00am. There are approximately 3,300 breeding pairs of chinstrap penguins on the island (it smells like it as you approach the landing site). There are also Antarctic terns, skuas (These are the blue jays of the Antarctic. They live off the eggs and chicks of penguins.) , kelp gulls, Wilson's storm-petrels, and blue-eyed shags. Back to ship for lunch. Did I tell you how delicious the meals were? The first part of the afternoon was spent on the Bridge watching our skillful ship's captain and crew navigate through Neptune's Bellows into Deception Island. This island is the remains of an implosion of a volcano. The island is in a "C" shape. The volcano is still active. Had the weather been calmer we would have been able to swim in an antarctic hot spring. As it was, the weather was treacherous. There were 7-8 force winds which I am told are gale force. The ship had a permanent lean to the starboard side. After supper we were treated to the movie "Blood Diamond"

Sat. & Sun. Nov.24 & 25 Drake Passage

2007-12-10T08:39:00.000-08:00

Great things have small beginnings -Francis Drake.

Wake-up call both days was 8:00am. We were treated to various lectures and films as we sailed across the Drake Passage being as there was little to see besides water and birds. Most of the time I spent eating, if possible, and laying down. The Drake is known for its fierce waters thus sea-sickness. Our medical doctor had the worse case. Poor man, he barely saw up the entire two days. Surprisingly, this is his second journey. He actually knew he was going to feel this way and came again anyway. Fortunately, the feeling quickly goes away if you lie horizontally. Much talk of the sinking Explorer. Mid afternoon we saw our first iceberg. There was some concern on the Bridge, as this was quite far north for it to have travelled. Sunday evening we had our first zodiac trip to shore at Aticho Island. Getting dressed was an adventure in itself. I started with my silk long johns. Next came a shirt and fleece pants. Next was a fleece top and waterproof pants. Next was my nylon vest. OK I need to lie down now. No! get up Sue, the Zodiac is almost ready to go. Next is the YELLOW parka and the tall rubber boots (supplied by Quark) that are need for possible wet landings. Wow! I can't believe I did it! Off to the Zodiac. We scrubbed our boots each trip out and on our returned to help prevent foreign particles travelling onto Antarctica. Down the gang plank which was basically a ladder. Here came the tricky part. I needed to hold onto the the seaman who was standing on a small platform at the bottom of the gangplank. When the crew member in the Zodiac told me, I stepped onto the side of the Zodiac and quickly sat down, then inched my way on my bottom to a free spot. Once we had 10 to 14 people on board we were off. Similarly, once we landed on shore we inched our way to the bow of the Zodiac and holding on the the crew member on shore, swung our feet out and onto the rocks or into the water whichever came first.There were penguins and snow everywhere. I was so excited. I felt like a kid in a candy store. I learned to say thank you in Russian - It is pronounced spasiba.

Ushuaia -Fri. Nov.23

2007-12-07T13:50:00.000-08:00

After depositing our luggage in the front hall for transportation to the ship and eating a yummy buffet breakfast, we set off for a tour of the National Park with "Rumbo Sur" (the name of the company). The day was sunny (very unusual in Ushuaia) and just below freezing. Billy will be glad to know we passed a golf course. Our tour guide, Sergio was well informed and willingly answered all our questions. Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) is so named because of the fiery red tree colours in the fall. We saw a black-crested eagle and a condor. Illness and alcohol annihilated the original Indian tribe that once inhabited Tierra del Fuego. Only one pure tribe member remains; an 80 year old woman. For the sale of their skins, beavers from Canada were introduced to the area. However, because it is not as cold in Ushuaia as in the north of Canada, the pelts were of poor quality and now instead of the 50 that were originally introduced there are over 100,000, as they have no natural predators. Similarly with rabbits. Both species are taking over the land and causing destruction. Lunch was a traditional Argentine barbecue (asado). Lots and lots of lamb and chicken on a HOT grill at our table. The afternoon was spent in downtown Ushuaia. At 4:00pm we embarked the "Akademik Shokalskiy" Yeah! We set sail through the Beagle Channel on our way to the Antarctic Peninsula at 5:00pm. Much talk of and concern for the Explorer and its passengers. Life boat drill had a whole new meaning. Exploration of the ship was fascinating, especially the Bridge. As the ship's crew is Russian, I was unable to understand what was being discussed about our journey and progress, but I was intrigued by the goings on of the crew. After a cocktail party with Captain Igor Kiselev, we were invited to the dining room for a Welcome Dinner. Every lunch and dinner consisted of a meat, fish or vegetarian choice. They were delicious and beautiful presented. Bedtime and preparation for the Drake Passage (No one told us about the Drake until it was too late).

Ushuaia Tierra del Fuego Argentina

2007-11-22T15:21:00.000-08:00

Enough with the Spanish!

Woke this morning about 5:30am. The hotel´s elevator is 1 metre square. Like the one in Paris. Only room for two people and two suitcases and NO more. Breakfast was food I had purchased from a supermarket I found last night. It was something lemony and sweet not quite sure what it was. Taxi took me to the airport. The tall buidings are narrow and thin. Maybe two to four apartments on each floor. In the poorest areas, the homes are made of whatever is available. Yesterday on the tour I made a friend. She was in the check- in line at the airport today. She was off to Paraguay. Tried calling home but could not get through. We were bused to our plane which took off at 8:30am. Met a gentleman from Milan who was sailing with a crew of 6 around the cape. Sounds like too much work for me. Exciting though! My nosiness is being squellshed. It is very difficult listening in on conversations when they are speaking a different language. So I ask alot of questions. As we prepared to land we hit a number of sudden and deep airpockets. Some people let out yells. It was like being on a rollercoaster and not having to worry about my neck. I loved it. The airport in Ushuaia made me think of a Scadinavian scene. It is rugged and elegant. I met Bridgette and Peter from London England. They were here 7 years ago and Bridgette said she swore she would never come back. She hates the cold. They appear to be in their 70´s. The town of Ushuaia is surrounded by the Andes Mountains (majestic snow covered). The temperature is 6 degree C. Hotel Los Ñires(it is the name of a famous tree in the area) also has a Scandinavian appearance. Lots of wood and rocks. I am staying in a room by myself. After the bellboy left, I sat on my bed, looked out my window and cried. The view was incredible, awe inspiring. I think I am a little tired too. I also am very aware of the silence. I know what they mean when they say deafening silence. OK I´ve had enought of the power outage too. I was happily writing this blog when POOF! the power went out again. Fortunately, this program realized those kinds of things happen and now half an hour later, the power is on and the blog was saved. Ventured to town on my own at 5:10pm. My plan was to sample a local fish dinner. Problem was, the major restuarants don´t open until 7:00pm and my bus back to the hotel leaves at 7:30pm. Next best thing, ask for a suggestion. Tante Sara was suggested. What fun! I thought I ordered tuna salad with a boiled egg and a glass of tap water. Nope! I got wine grilled shrimp with lettuce and a yummy ceasar dressing and a bottle of sparkling mineral water. It was only $8. As I sat and watched the world go by I noticed that here in Urshaia it is the opposite to the islands. Here the locals all go around with sweaters. No hats or gloves while the tourists are bundled up with coats, hats, and gloves. After all it is almost summer here.
It´s 10:00pm. I´m going to go back to my room and read for awhile. Tomorrow we have a tour of Urshaia and then on to the ship. I still cant believe I am at the other end of the world.
Love and hugs, Sue

Buenos Aries

2007-11-21T09:05:00.000-08:00

Buenos Aries

OK nobody told me that EVERYTHING including all the direction on this computer would be in Spanish. Go Figure. Most of the letters have been worn off these keys so good luck trying to read this.I had an omltete at a quaint cafe next door to my hotel and I am leavign on a 3 hour tour of Buenos Aries in 5 minutes.I am so proud of myself!I´ll be intouch again as soon as possible. ---I´m back.I´m going back to my leaving yesterday and giving you a run down of the trip thus far---When Billy and I pulled out of the driveway there was a van with the name SERENITY the side. We picked up Sarah and off to TO. Easy trip along the 401.Kisses and hugs at security and I was on my own. Settled down once I reached Dallas.Rode up and down the longest escalator I have ever seen. Was going to try the skyride but wasn´t sure how long it would take and surely did not want to miss my flight.Left Dallas at 7:35 right on time.Our take off speed was 332km/hr.Love it!Slept fairly well considering the bumpy ride. I tried to imagine I was in a hamock on a windy day.Only 20 minutes to landing when I woke. MP3 player was playing EVERGREEN.Lots of people with signs displying names.There it was Susan Gaskell. That´s me.7 lanes of traffic.Similar city to Sao Paulo Brazil.There are beautiful purple flowered trees everywhere.Bus trip was well worth the $15.We saw the palace where Maddona sang Evita(actually it was the presidence wife who spoke to the people before she died. We visited the oldest home in Buenos Aries.I could have spent hours there.Just down the street was an artisan area.There was music, laughter, dancing, paintings and the like. The football (soccer field was amazing. I´m of to bed now. Love SueG

Antarctic Adventure

2007-11-19T09:41:00.000-08:00

November 19, 2007. Tomorrow, Tuesday, November 20th, I leave Toronto Pearson Airport at 3:20pm and fly to Dallas, Texas. At 5:55pm the same day I fly from Dallas to Buenos Aires, Brazil arriving at 9:20am. I plan to tour Buenos Aries that day, if I can keep my eyes open. I'm so excited!At 8:50am the next morning, Thursday, November 22nd, I fly to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire), Argentina, the world's southern most city. Wow! On Thursday, November 23rd, we have a guided tour of a nearby National Park, followed by a traditional Argentine asado barbecue (as most of your know, I'll eat anything). By late afternoon we will be sailing down the Beagle Channel towards the Antarctic. My heart is pounding just thinking about it!