Sunday, January 13, 2008

South of Lemaire Channel, Thusday, Nov. 29, 2007


"We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us." John Steinbeck "Travels with Charlie"
As you can see from the pictures, every day and everywhere you look there was something amazing to see and experience. It's as if one human being is unable to absorb it all. The Lemaire Channel is the most scenic point in the Antarctic Peninsula with its rugged snow-covered mountains, crystal clear waters, majestic icebergs, and stunningly blue sky. The afternoon was spent at the Ukranian base Veradsky Station. No women are allowed to work on this base. That being the case, when women visit as we did, the men are extremly please with our female company. The young fellow (Gliebov Volodymyr) in the picture with me is the cook on the base. He asked me "Are you one? Are you alone?" As soon as I said yes, he latched onto me. He never left my side until it was time for us to leave. Another fellow came over to chat with us but Gliebov stuck close. There is also a tradition, that if a woman gives the bartender her bra, she receives a free shot of vodka.
The penguins were very noisy and smelly creatures, but you can't stop watching their antics. They lay their eggs on rock or on a nest they make out of rocks which they have collected. Many of them travel a distance to find these rocks while others steal the rocks from their neighbours, which can create quite a scene.
We saw 5 different kinds of seals (Crabeater, Fur, Elephant, Weddell, and Leopard. The Leopard is the only one that actually dines on penguins). The seals lounge on ice flows, basking in the sun.



Riding in the Zodiacs was an exciting experience in itself. The crew all had Zodiac training and at no time did I feel anything but safe and secure. Each driver though, had different skills and attitudes toward the vehicle . Jill, the female member of the team, was more cautious than the men but had a great deal more knowledge of the Antarctic. The one Russian driver was fearless but never spoke a word unless he wanted you to get in our out of the Zodiac. The other men of the team were somewhere in between these two.

Tonight we camp out!
At 9:00pm, we 21 campers set off in the Zodiacs, with sleeping bags, tents, and thermal sleeping mats. It is about minus one when we arrive on Hovgaard Island. Having had some instruction we set up our tents and prepare for our Antarctic sleep-out. Jamie our guide creates our portable toilet area.









As you can see, in order to view the picture of our port-a-po, you will have to turn your head to the right. Jamie even provide us with toilet paper and hand sanitizer. What a guy!
After hiking up to the top of hill to see the sunset at 11:30pm (which actually never really sets) we head back to our tents to sleep. At first I was quite warm, however, once the cold of the ice and the snow under me, crept through my sleeping mat I was quite cold. I guess that can happen when you sleep out in minus six degrees Celsius. I did it though. 5:00am we awoke and were transported back to the ship to catch a few more hours sleep before breakfast.




1 comment:

jag said...

Keep it comin'! I LOVE that photo of you sitting with the penguins. I don't think there are a lot of people who can claim to have done that!

Love & Blessings...